The limits of my language are the limits of my world*

I’ve spent a significant amount of time in various partnership cities.

These are places where we help build strong relationships between North American Jewish Federation communities with a community in Israel, or Europe, or the former Soviet Union. There are layers and layers of relationship models – schools, JCCs, projects, programs, personal ties – that deepen each year. They enhance Jewish identity and connectivity for everyone involved.

The basic components of these partnerships are unique to the communities. At some point we’ll get some ideas together about the best practices – feel free to send me some ideas and I’ll start sharing them too. But two ideas keep coming back to me.

First, when we build partnerships in, for example, a Russian-speaking country, one of the best ways to deepen that connection Stateside is to have a Russian “ulpan” for the leadership. You don’t have to learn the language to fluency, but even a basic grasp of a few common words makes a huge impact on your audience and friends when you travel there.
Think about what happens when you go to a foreign country and you can say a few words of their language when you walk around. Same thing here.

Second, there’s a single common language that we share in our communities.
It’s Hebrew.
In practically every country I've ever visited in my work in the Joint, I've met with someone from the local leadership who speaks Hebrew. You name it, they speak Hebrew there.
If we want to deepen these partnerships – and strengthen the Jewish identity on both sides – learning Hebrew is one of the best, most effective and most powerful ways to do it.

And hamevin yevin.

*Ludwig Wittgenstein.

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Argentinians are Italians speaking Spanish who pretend to be British

There were a lot of fascinating stories and anecdotes from our Strategic Partnerships Mission to Argentina this past week. One throwaway comment, in particular, really struck me. It was made by a macroeconomist who spoke with our group. I asked him what would be the wisest thing he does – as an economist – for his family living in Argentina.

I’ll get to his response in a moment. But first, a bit of framing.

There's so much uncertainty in the Argentinian economic climate right now. The official exchange rate is 4.5 pesos to the dollar – but the real “blue market” exchange rate is more like 9 pesos to the dollar. The official inflation rate is 10% … but most economists will tell you that the real inflation rate is more like 25%. Imagine trying to get a business loan, or a mortgage, when you don’t know (or: your lender doesn't know) what the rates will be like in six months time? The answer is, you can’t.

And when the government started to limit the purchase of dollars in 2009, most analysts saw this move as pretty much like shouting “fire” in a crowded theater. Foreign investment ran away, the middle class shifted their assets abroad … and the economy changed forever.

The good news ... is that even if we’ll see another recession in the next twelve months (which is probable) … it won’t look like what we saw in 2001-2002. The main reason is that the Argentinian economy has changed so much since then: there was major “Chinese” growth (9%+) for some years, strong import-substitutions, a solid tourism base has been built up, and … most interestingly, so many of the middle-class have moved their funds out of the country. So the scale of impact is going to look different next time. If there is a next time.

Explaining the economics of Argentina, and how people who cheat on taxes are more celebrated than disparaged, our presenter said, “Argentinians are Italians speaking Spanish who pretend to be British.” That’s a fascinating statement of national identity (and there are layers and layers of meaning behind his comment, too).

But more importantly, I asked him what does he, as an economist, think the smartest thing he can do to protect his family?

“That’s easy,” he said. “We don’t buy any clothes in Argentina. We buy our clothes in outlet malls in New Jersey. That’s the smartest thing I do as an economist.”

JDC Strategic Partnerships Mission to Argentina 2013

 Our intrepid group, overlooking the Iguazu Falls, on the border between Argentina and Brazil

 The beautiful Agam kinetic structure at the entrance of the AMIA building

Iguazu

Kids reading at the Baby Help program, Buenos Aires

Eva is everywhere.

Outside the Presidential Palace

Above and to the right: at the LeDor VaDor Old Age Home. Inside the home is the Baby Help program (Viviana, at right, is showing the herb garden where children and the elderly tend the plants together). It's an amazing place.

Above and to the right: at the Recoleta Cemetery (and Eva Peron's mausoleum)

At the Tel Aviv School, supported and managed by JDC

The Argentinian economy. Oh, and an unfunny joke.

We had a fascinating briefing in Buenos Aires from an economist, who delved into the whats and whys of Argentina’s economic collapse in 2001 … and the possibilities of a forthcoming crisis.

What I found particularly interesting was to hear his comments after having lunch with my inspiring colleague, Jorge Schulman, JDC’s Argentina Country Director. Jorge noted that Argentina is unique for the Joint in one special way. In other Latin American countries, Jewish community members say to us “you saved us,” meaning that we rescued them from DP Camps and the Shoah. But here in Argentina they say to us “you saved us” and we know they’re referring to the 2001-2 Collapse.

There's no question that 2001 was the “1930s” Great Depression of Argentina.  The difference, though, is that in the US we had a stable government – in Argentina they went through five presidents in one week. The devaluation was so massive that the peso dropped 75% in one night, and GDP dropped 25%.

Why did all this happen? There are a lot of immediate causes, but the explanation I found really fascinating was the psychological one. The economist, same age as me (let’s say “early 40s”) has lived through five major crises. Not recessions, but full-blown meltdown crises. 

Argentina, he thinks, has no real checks and balances on its money, its finances and its economic health.

There’s a lot behind this statement. It gives you an idea about how Argentinians think about money, how they save, and how they worry.  I’ll try to write some more about this down the line, but in the meantime, here’s a joke I heard in various formats when people tried to explain the crisis in 2001. True, it’s not a very funny joke and I know, you've probably heard it before, but the fact that several people told it (and not always in a clean version) is revealing …

-          How’s the current crisis going?

-          No problem -  I sleep like a baby.

-          Really?

-          Yes, I wake up every three hours crying.

My favorite story of the week (so far)

Here in Buenos Aires on our JDC Strategic Partnerships mission, we were privileged to meet with Rabbi Abraham Skorka, Rector of the Seminario Rabbinico Latinoamericano. He’s a personal friend of Pope Francis, and also an impressive Jewish leader and a terrific storyteller.

We sat in his offices for a fascinating conversation about Jewish life and leadership in Argentina. About the challenges and the pluralism that the Jewish community faces today. And about the Pope.

Rabbi Skorka has been invited, since the 1990s, to the annual Te Deum festival, celebrating Argentina’s independence.  The festival is hosted by the Archbishop and includes Argentinian religious leaders to show unity and dialogue. He and Archbishop Bergoglio regularly exchanged greetings, even before Jose Bergoglio rose to the position of Archbishop and then Pope. But some years ago, Bergoglio changed the order of greetings so that he could show more respect to other religious leaders. The Archbishop and the Rabbi would regularly exchange a comment about the River Plate soccer team (‘the chickens’) – Rabbi Skorka’s favorite team – and the San Lorenzo team, favored by the Archbishop.  Alas, the chickens were never a very successful team.

Rabbi Skorka said this one time, after quoting a passage from Jeremiah and a brief comment on theology, he admitted that San Lorenzo had ended their round with a very good position. “I guess this year we’ll all be eating chicken soup,” he said.

Noticing the Papal Nuncio’s shock at the use of a slang word that could have been interpreted as rude, Archbishop Bergoglio hasted to assure the Nuncio that they were just chatting about soccer. Even though the President of Argentina was waiting impatiently for the Archbishop to lead the procession, he and the Rabbi carried on with their joke.

That’s how the friendship between the Rabbi and the Pope began. Rabbi Skorka is in regular contact with the Pope, and even stayed in his private apartment in Rome this past year.  The Pope, he says, is a man of deep integrity and warmth. What he says and does is what he feels.

It was a wonderful meeting, and a real privilege to meet Rabbi Skorka and hear his stories.

Why am I in Argentina?

I’m here in Buenos Aires, staffing a JDC Strategic Partnerships Mission with a small group of dedicated and inquisitive JDC supporters and philanthropists. 

I’ll write some mission notes up over the next few days, but I wanted to write down at least a few introductory thoughts ….

I wanted to bring a mission down here because, for me at least, Argentina is a microcosm of the Jewish world and the work we do. Our values of community empowerment, mutual responsibility, repairing the world … all are at play here and reflect our ongoing commitment. And the vitality and resilience of this community are amazing qualities to see and absorb.

What I found fascinating so far is that our definition of community here rests on a unique blend that takes into account both individuals and institutions. And here in Argentina, the institutions have always been the backbone and strength of the community. 

And then you think about the 2001 economic collapse, as a result of which the Joint scaled up its programs to provide employment programs, welfare programs and community renewal.

When you think about how quickly the Joint had to turn on a dime in late 2001 here, there's another message too. JDC’s total Latin America staff went from 12 to 150, and the budget grew from $100,000 fiftyfold as a result of the massive economic collapse! What it means is – I think – when we’re called upon to serve, we need to answer the call. And when the work is done, we can phase down, and empower local partners to step back up again.

All of this is happening here in Argentina. So I’m privileged to be staffing this mission. 

Incriminating photos of tango dancing, wonderful hospitality and more may yet be forthcoming …

What's the vision in Odessa?

Notes from our opening JDC briefing for the Associated - Baltimore Jewish Federation mission to Odessa:

JDC will eventually pull out. It may take a long time, but when the community is strong enough, and self-sufficient, we will pack up and come home. We've done this in over 30 countries, and the aim is to work ourselves out of a job everywhere.

In Odessa, we'll realize the vision when we have a sustainable Jewish community here that shows excellence in each of the following four areas:

·           A caring community that lifts and empowers its most vulnerable members and extends a compassionate hand to those in need

·           An engaged community that welcomes Jews of every age, in every neighborhood, wherever they gather, and offers them many ways to connect to their Jewish community

·           A learning community that encourages lifelong study through a wealth of high-quality formal and informal educational opportunities

·           A just community that seeks social justice through commitment to the Jewish ideals of tikkun olam (repair of the world) and gemilut chasadim (acts of loving-kindness)

This is the vision. 

Now we just have to figure out how to get there.

Blue Dawn – Haredi training in the Israeli Air Force

A stunning and memorable visit during our Farash Foundation / JDC Strategic Partnership Mission was a site visit to an Israel Air Force Base to see the Blue Dawn program.

Blue Dawn integrates Ultra-Orthodox (“Haredi”) men into the army, respectfully, and mindful of both their needs and the army’s needs. It prepares these young men for military service, and equips them with a useful profession for civilian life afterwards. By doing this, Blue Dawn lifts entire sectors out of poverty, and turns them from welfare recipients to taxpayers.

It’s a growing issue in Israeli society. 

In 1948 Prime Minister Ben-Gurion gave “Torah study” exemptions to a few hundred scholars, since Torah study had been decimated after the Shoah (Holocaust). But by 1992, some 5% of Jewish men claimed an exemption. By 2012 it was 12.4% The concept of "equalizing the burden" was one of the key issues in the elections this January.

Captain Liran, the head of the program, explained that most of the Haredi enlisted soldiers are married (65%) with children (50%).  That actually makes them a good investment from the army’s perspective, since they tend to be more mature than your average 18-year old recruit. The average age of a Blue Dawn Haredi soldier is 24.

45% have no previous technological background. But we teach them to be technicians, electricians, mechanics. Important military roles that are directly transferable to the civilian sector and are in great demand.

Here’s what’s amazing, The Government aims for 63% employment placement in general for the Haredi men  … after graduating Blue Dawn, 92% of the released Haredi soldiers find good civilian jobs!

Blue Dawn is paving the way for Haredi integration into the army and Israeli society. And it will change Israel, the army, and Haredi society all for the better.

Getting a job

One of the most fascinating briefings our Farash Foundation Strategic Partnerships Mission enjoyed was by my colleague, Reeva Ninio, Director of Strategic Planning for JDC-Israel’s TEVET Initiative. TEVET is the JDC department working with the Israeli Government and our local partners on all issues of employment and poverty.

Reeva’s insights are fascinating. TEVET works with four major population groups with unique employment challenges: the Haredim (Orthodox), Arabs, Ethiopian-Israelis, and youth.

With our work, the successes have been significant. In 2008, 38% of Haredi men worked. Just four years later that has jumped to 46%. 

We have nine employment centers for Haredim in Israel. They’ll all eventually be transferred to the Government.

But why is employment so critical? 

Because the average Haredi family has seven kids. And when two parents are both working, only 5% of these families are living under the poverty level.

But when both parents are unemployed, 60% of these families are under the poverty level.

Employment and poverty go hand in hand. The more tax-takers we can convert into tax-payers, the better we all are.

Farash Foundation JDC Strategic Partnership Mission to Israel April-May 2013

Etrog-sprays at the Machane Yehuda culinary tour

 Visit to Israel Air Force Base to see the JDC "Blue Dawn" program for Haredi (Orthodox) enlistment
Below: Independence Hall, Tel Aviv

Above: Arab Druze hospitality in Usifiyah
Left: overlooking Jerusalem
Below: explaining Jerusalem's history

 Above: at the Supreme Court, Jerusalem
Left: embarking on a culinary tour of Machane Yehuda
Below left: cheese tasting

Above and left and below: Better Together kindergarten, Kiryat Gat

 Left: preparing a dedication sign for Better Together Kiryat Gat
Below: with the mayor of Kiryat Gat, Aviram Dahari, ribbon cutting

 Above: Kiryat Gat Mayor Dahari fixes the mezuza to the new Better Together Center
Right: networks and webs of connections in Better Together BeerSheva

Above: JDC-Ashalim Nutrition program for Ethiopian-Israeli mothers in Beersheva, Yud-Aleph neighborhood
Right: Israel Air Force/JDC "Blue Dawn" program

Early Childhood

The Farash Foundation continues its inspiring Strategic Partnership mission in Israel. Dr. Rami Sulimani, Director of JDC-Israel’s Ashalim (Youth Programs) Department, gave a riveting and moving presentation on the challenges of youth programs and Israel’s future.

“My vision,” he explains, “is to give every child an equal chance.”

It’s easy to say, but a lot more difficult to actually implement. Rami and his team spend over a year just on preparing the ground for an individual program.

Because if you want to make real, meaningful change in the lives of Israel’s children, you have to start at a very early age.

That’s how JDC-Israel started the PACT (Parents And Children Together) working with the Ethiopian-Israeli community, and the ECHAD (Early Childhood Achievement and Development) program for Arab-Israelis. Both programs emphasize early-childhood enrichment and educational support, while working with parents and the family environment. As each program becomes strong enough in its funding and structure, JDC phases out and lets local NGOs and partners run the programs by themselves.

PACT and ECHAD allowed us to form the bases for a massive cooperation and partnership with the Government of Israel called “New Beginnings,” an early childhood initiative in over a hundred locations in Israel, impacting the lives of tens of thousands of children. Every day.

Rami’s vision, the commitment of JDC-Israel, and the partnership with our funders and supporters, allows us to have collective, system-wide impact, helping tens of thousands of Israel’s children and youth on a daily basis. 

Mangoes and other strange Israeli philanthropic fruit.

Our Strategic Partnerships Mission in Israel continues with the wonderful trustees of the Farash Foundation. We had a superb briefing by my colleague, Galit Sagie, Director of Planning and Development for JDC-Israel. 

One of the most interesting developments in Israeli philanthropy in the past few years has been the "MaNGoes" - an acronym (sorta) for "my own NGO" - an attempt by Israeli philanthropists to set up their own pet projects, supported by their own philanthropic foundation. Occasionally this results in the Israeli philanthropist turning to US philanthropic funds asking for their help and support.

On the other hand, we're a long way off, still, from Israeli Board members on NGOs being expected to make a donation to the cause for which they were asked to sit.

We've come a very long way in a short time with Israeli philanthropy. We were a social-welfare and pseudo-socialist state, in which expectations came from the people to the State. We have a massive culture of volunteerism, but that doesn't translate to an organized culture of philanthropy. (Disorganization we seem to have lots of ....)

But we've come a very long way.

Israeli Society

I'm here in Israel with the first-ever mission of the Farash Foundation. In a packed itinerary, we’re experiencing the challenges and horizons of Israel, and the work of the Joint.

One of our most impressive meetings was an introduction to Israeli society and its challenges by Professor Jack Habib, Director of Myers-JDC-Brookdale, our foremost applied-social research institute.

Jack gave a superb overview of the challenges that Israel faces, which in some ways are even more striking than any other country:

(1)   huge immigration, per capita more than any other country

(2)   massive cultural diversity

(3)   and huge diversity in social capital, wide gaps and inequality.

From 1948, with two populations (Ashkenazi-Sephardi) widely different in their education, culture, understandings, then absorbing an immigrant population and doubling the size of the State in two years … to 1990, when 5 million Israelis absorbed a million Russian speakers in less than ten years. The challenges have been immense. But we shouldn’t forget the successes.

In 1992, at the height of immigration, unemployment in Israel was 25%

Just four years later, it had dropped to 6%.

When we invest in immigrants, we get great results.

Baltimore, Odessa and Partnerships

I've spent the last couple of days with my amazing colleague, Irina Zborovskaya, Director of JDC Odessa. Born in Odessa, Ira has become a leader in the area of Jewish Community Development in Southern Ukraine. She leads JDC projects and programming that provide Jewish Renewal as well as welfare relief for Jewish elderly, children and families.

One of the most fascinating aspects that we’ve been discussing here in Baltimore with our colleagues and friends from the Associated, the Jewish Federation in Baltimore, is how Odessa is not just a strong and vibrant partnership but also a microcosm of much of what is happening in the Jewish world today, in general, and specifically in the FSU (former Soviet Union).

There are two clashing trends clearly visible in Odessa today, that are playing out in many of the 75+ countries in which we work: hunger and thirst.

There is real hunger – real need, real poverty. 

Thousands of Jewish elderly are given food, medicine, homecare, winter supplies on a daily basis. 

But there is also real thirst – a thirst for Jewish knowledge, identity, community. 

And our task is to continually find the balance between the two in how we prioritize, how we allocate precious resources, how we predict the future trends and demographics of the community.

Ira is at the forefront of this grappling. And we’re fortunate to have partners like the Associated working with us on these, and many other, challenges and horizons.

JDC Strategic Partnerships Mission to Kazakhstan and Turkey

The JDC Strategic Partnerships Mission. Somewhere near Almaty, Kazakhastan

Meeting with the Consul-General of Israel in Istanbul

Most public buildings, schools, etc. in Istanbul, need to have hard-hats under seats in case of earthquakes

Istanbul in the morning, looking over the Bosphorus

Aya Sofia

The Basilica Cisterns, underneath Istanbul

The wonderful Day Center at Hesed Almaty

Food packages for elderly clients in Hesed Almaty

Amazing and dedicated volunteers at Hesed Almaty, helping to put food packages together for those in need

An international photo exhibit and competition by young members of Hesed Almaty - the photos were beautiful, and the message of cooperation and recording shared heritage was inspiring

Photo from the competition

Almaty in the morning. Not warm.

Guny village, about an hour from Almaty

Traditional Kazakh cooking class.

Yurt village

Food preparation (there's a hole underneath the pot where you add blocks of wood and build a fire)

Not the-vegetarian-option

Lunch in Guny

Dancing class in Hesed Almaty

Arts and crafts in Hesed Almaty

Singing group in Hesed Almaty

Downtown Astana

A warm and lovely welcome in Hesed Astana

Yelena, Director of Hesed Astana

The Pyramid of Peace in Astana

The Pyramid of Peace in Astana

Astana Opera House

Bayterek is the most famous landmark in Astana. The legend behind this tower as a symbol is that it represents a poplar tree, where the magic bird Samruk laid its egg.

The view from the top of Baytarek

Khan Shatyr, a giant shopping mall complex, shaped like a nomad tent, another building designed by Norman Foster. Underneath the tent, an area larger than 10 football stadiums, is an urban-scale internal park, shopping and entertainment venue with squares and cobbled streets, a boating river, shopping centre, minigolf and indoor beach resort.